Tutorial: Perfect Zipper Tab

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

I think most of you have a good handle on this, but I know there are a few of you who have voiced your dislike for the little zipper tab. I assure you it is better than dented in corners on zipper pouches. :P

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Several of my zipper installation techniques center around the same idea: Don’t sew zipper teeth into seams, especially top corners, if you can avoid it. This makes for a much cleaner, more professional finish. I don’t even like the metal zipper stops – I cut them right off – because there is too much of a chance of a broken needle. Let’s avoid that, yes?

So, that leaves a folded zipper tab either sewn into the top seams like on The Essential Wristlet or you can extend the zipper tape like on the Two Zip Hipster, Daytripper, Quick Zip Lunch Bag, Make Me Up, and the Gadget Guard. The reason that I chose to extend the zips on those is for one good reason: You want the zipper to open wide. If you had a zipper tab sewn into the top seam of the Gadget Guard, like it is the wristlet, you would need to add AT LEAST another inch of to the width, which defeats the purpose of a snug fit and makes your device flop around inside. On the purses, it’s so you can open them all the way and actually see into it and find things.

While making the Gadget Guard, I documented the process I’ve been using lately to make them super easy to sew. It kind of has to be the last step, which can be tricky, but I promise it’s doable. So, here is the last step of the Gadget Guard, in a bit more detail. Let me know if I need to draw the arrows for you.

You will need a scrap of fabric for your zipper tab, some paper backed *sewable* fusible web (the kind that comes on a roll or a sheet – like Wonder Under) and some fray block.

Cut your zipper tab 2” x 4” for 1” wide zippers or 2.5” x 5” for 1.25” wide (long pull) zippers.
(The makeup bag is different, use the dimensions specified in the pattern.)

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Fold the top and bottom of the zipper tab to the center, wrong sides together, and press.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view. Fold the sides to the center and press.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Check the size to make sure it slides onto the zipper. This is where you will insert the zipper tape later.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Back side of zipper tape:Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Fuse a small 3/4” x 1/4” strip of paper backed fusible web to both ends of the inside. Do not remove the paper.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Fold the in half (top to bottom) enclosing all of the raw edges. Line everything up and press. The paper is still on and helping to keep the sides from unfolding while you press. This is the key!! Make sure it’s all lined up and looks nice.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Unfold, remove the paper, fold back together, and press to fuse. Use steam to get a good fuse! This will keep the tab from unfolding on you while you slide it onto the end of the zipper tape.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

My patterns all have instructions on where to cut the zipper, but for the Gadget Guard, you’ll position the zipper so that you have enough clearance for your device. Measure 1.25” from the outside edge of the zipper pull while it’s in this position, and cut off the excess zipper.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Slide the top “slot” of the zipper tab onto the zipper, and make sure the other, folded side is on the bottom. Make sure you push it down so the zipper teeth are all the way at the fold. The fusible web should help everything stay together. You can add a Clover Wonder Clip if you have one.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

I like to use my 1/4″ foot which has 1/8″ notches, and use the 1/8″ notch as a guide. You could also use your zipper foot. Add your foot and pull up your bobbin thread.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Do not be afraid to scrunch up the pouch to get it in there. I close the zip just enough to clear the zipper tab and presser foot, but so that the pouch is open. Looking down, this is how I load it into the machine.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Now you will finally sew a box around the zipper tab. I start with the needle down, 2 stitches in from the corner, 1/8″ away from the edge. Use a longer stitch length, like 3.5-4 when topstitching. It looks nicer, it feeds through the machine easier, and it’s easier to pull out without ruining the project you have nearly completed, should you need to.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Sew to each corner *slowly* and pivot with the needle down.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Come back around to where you started. Now, some people like to backstitch at the beginning and end. That’s fine. I like to take one or two stitches past where I started, and then pull it out of the machine leaving longer threads. My Bernina 750 has an awesome auto-cut button, and it’s difficult to resist using it, but you’ll see why.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Then I like to turn it over to the back side and pull on the threads to get that little loop. If you pull that, the threads will come right to the back, where you can tie them off. If they won’t, simply thread them into a hand sewing needle and push them through to the back that way.

Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.

Tie everything off, add a glob of fray block, and clip your threads (or bury them, if you want.) :)